The Truth about Mold and finding it in your home

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MOISTURE EQUALS MOLD – Moisture may be found in the structure during our visual inspection. If moisture is found, then it is scientifically known that moisture and mold are inter-related. Pacific Crest Inspections does not claim to have the background, education, or experience necessary to formulate an opinion as to the existence or non-existence of mold. If moisture is listed in any portion of the report, then we want our clients to understand that mold may also be present and that they should meet with the experts of their choice who have the background, education and experience to help them. Due to the lack of government health standards for Mold and the lack of regulation for mold testing, we do not encourage our customers to test for mold. If you see it, smell it or there is evidence of water damage, mold will be present.

In a recent study by the Canada Housing and Mortgage Corporation, Don Fulger, a building science researcher, evaluated 400 houses chosen at random in Ottawa. “We found that 50% of the basements had evidence of moisture damage at some time,” said Fulger. “Wherever you had chronic wetting, you had mold. Wherever you had mold, you had at least one toxigenic mold.”

Pacific Crest in spections mold testing AnacortesAs a professional home & commercial building inspector I have noticed, with what I believe to be increasing regularity, evidence of mold and mildew inside of homes. It is not an uncommon occurrence to find mold inside a wall cavity as a new window is installed – many times in homes as new as one or two years. I have also closely followed older homes, as they have been upgraded step-by-step, in a homeowners effort to make them more energy efficient. As new siding, windows, doors, and insulation are installed, what were once “loose” houses that breathed, have become “tight” houses virtually overnight with very little fresh air flow. With the moisture levels we frequently see in the Northwest, it is just a matter of time before mold or fungus starts to grow. Just drive down any street with older homes and you will see fungus growing on roofs or gutters. Just imagine what the possibilities are in a crawl space with warmer temperatures.

Previous to World War II, there was not much change in the way houses were built.  Of course, indoor plumbing, central heating, and electricity were added during this period and became the norm, but the basic building materials and overall design philosophy remained basically the same.  For the most part, dwellings were constructed out of the native materials available in and around a very localized area.

Considerable changes occurred in building practices after World War II. The invention of modern adhesives and synthetic plastics offered new and exciting materials such as plywood, particle board, affordable (synthetic) carpeting, micro-laminated beams capable of spanning great distances, caulk, etc.  Also, better plumbing and upgraded electrical service greatly added to the comfort and safety of a home.   Still, while great changes and upgrades in building materials were made during this period, much of the overall design philosophy of homes remained the same.

With the energy crisis of the 1970’s, an entirely different building design philosophy began to take hold.  In order to save energy, building “energy efficient homes” was the craze, and several government-subsidized  weatherization programs were instituted virtually overnight.  In the zeal to button up every crack, we sealed our homes without thought of the importance of fresh air and proper ventilation.

Many of the newly invented building materials in use, have ingredients that “out-gas” (give off fumes).  The new, tight, energy efficient homes we started to build did not allow for the escape or dilution of these indoor pollutants, thereby creating a whole host of problems.   Also, hidden moisture problems due to overly tight construction (inside wall cavities, attics, etc.) began to surface, which were leading to an increasing incidence of mold growth, related health problems, and deterioration of the affected building materials.

Tight, energy efficient construction is an excellent idea, and saving energy is also a good idea.  But fresh air and no interior moisture problems are even better ideas!  All three of these concepts can be employed together, if good building practices and proper planning is done.  For example, submarines and space-capsules are among the tightest and best insulated structures ever built, yet they have very good air quality.  NASA and the US Navy have both used healthy materials combined with good air-purification techniques.   Obviously, when building a home you cannot afford, nor do you want to build a space-capsule, but some of the same basic design philosophies can be adopted.

Mold is one of a wide variety of biological contaminants that can be found in a home, and which can potentially cause health problems.  Some of these include – algae, viruses, pollen, dust mites, dander, bacteria, and fungi (includes yeast, mold, mildew, mushrooms, etc.).  Shown below are three of the more common molds that can be found in homes:

	Aspergillus – Can infect the entire body of an individual, especially if the person has lung damage or another serious underlying illness.
	Cladosprium – Typically forms on surfaces where water condenses (windows, doors, etc.). Can cause mild allergic responses in some individuals.
	Stachybotrys – Presents the most serious potential health threat. Can cause internal bleeding of the lungs, and pulmonary hemorrhage. Has been implicated as one of the causes of “sick building syndrome”.

While many forms of mold can present health risks, Stachybotrys chartarum rises to the top as presenting the most serious risk to humans and animals. In 1993-1994, it was linked to an unusual outbreak of pulmonary hemorrhage in infants in Cleveland, Ohio, where stachybotrys was found growing in the homes of the sick infants. Due in part to this incident, the medical community has an increased awareness of the potential dangers of molds in homes. For example, in 1997, the Journal of the American Medical Association carried a news article entitled, “Floods carry potential toxic mold disease”.

Mold needs three basic ingredients in order to grow:

• Food Source
• Suitable temperature
• Moisture

If any one of the above is removed, all growth will subsequently stop. However, mold can lay dormant for many years, and if the above are re-introduced it can continue to grow again. This is why it is so important when a mold problem is found to:

1. identify the source and cause,
2. repair the problem
3. remove or kill as much of the mold as possible.

Most newer homes today are constructed using materials and methods that make them very air-tight. Many older homes that have been upgraded by installing new energy efficient windows and doors, siding, insulation, etc., can become “tight” virtually overnight. The effect can be like a giant plastic bag placed over a house, where no air can enter or escape.
Both over-pressurization and de-pressurization of the interior of a house can

lead to inner wall and ceiling damage. Many appliances such as wood burning fire-places, may not operate properly due to drafting problems, etc. One characteristic of air-flow and pressure-related moisture damage to a house and its components is that the damage being caused is often hidden from view, and not always readily visible. Since many of the problems occur inside a wall or ceiling cavity, they can continue un-diagnosed for a long period of time.

Over-Pressurization can take place when more air is introduced into certain areas of a “tight house”, than can escape through normal leakage or through duct-work, etc.  The inside of the house will be at a positive pressure, relative to the outside. Over-pressurization can be localized on a room-by-room basis, or it can be house-wide.Some ways in which a house can be over-pressurized are:

• Insufficient return-air venting.
• Leaky heating & air-conditioning ducts.
• Closed doors.
• Upgrading the exterior “shell” (siding, windows, doors, soffits, etc.), in an older home.

A potential problem with an over-pressurized house is that moisture laden air can be forced from the living space, into the wall or ceiling cavity.  If the “dew point” (the temperature at which air is saturated with moisture – 100% relative humidity – and below which, condensation will occur) is reached inside the wall cavity, condensation will be released into the wall (see diagram below).  A perfect breeding ground for mold!  For a more detailed description of over-pressurization go to “The Basic Dynamics of Over-Pressurization and De-Pressurization“.

The house shown in the photograph on the left, was only several years old when the owner called me for advice. He was noticing some staining on the drywall along the inside walls, and the paint was starting to peel and blister on the outside siding.  When I tested the moisture levels of the interior of the wall cavity using a digital wall probe, the levels ranged from 15% – 31%.   After having the drywall removed, I found mold already in advanced stages of growth along the OSB sheathing (shown in picture).  The fiber-glass insulation was wet with mold growing in it, as well.  All the damaged insulation had be replaced but fortunately, no lasting damage had been done to the structural components.  All visible mold growth was removed, and the affected areas completely sanitized.

The likely culprit here?  The homeowner had finished off his own basement, but had forgotten to install return-air vents and a proper vapor barrier along the outside walls. Over-pressurization due to a lack of return-air vents forced moisture-laden warm air into the wall cavities where it condensed, causing significant damage in a short time.

De-pressurization can take place when more air is exhausted from a house than is returned back into it.  The inside of the house will be at a negative pressure, relative to the outside.   De-pressurization can be localized on a room-by-room basis, or it can be house-wide.Some ways in which a house can be de-pressurized are:

• Wind blowing over & around house.
• Mechanical exhaust venting (clothes dryer, range hood fan, bathroom exhaust fan, etc.).
• No combustion air venting present for furnace, water heater, fireplace, etc.
• Leaky heating & air-conditioning ducts.
• Closed doors.

Some potential problems with a de-pressurized house are:   provides the potential for “back-drafting” down chimneys of fuel-burning appliances creating a carbon monoxide risk; can increase the radon levels in a home; moisture laden air can be drawn from the outside, into the wall or ceiling cavity; etc.

If the “dew point” (the temperature at which air is saturated with moisture – 100% relative humidity – and below which, condensation will occur) is reached inside the wall cavity, condensation will be released into the wall (see dew point diagram above).  A perfect breeding ground for mold!

Click on the thumbnail image above to see an expanded view of how a clothes dryer exhaust can de-pressurize a house.  In this case, causing back-drafting of the water heater chimney vent.

De-pressurization can affect a structure and its inhabitants due to  the hidden moisture potential it can create inside wall and ceiling cavities.

De-pressurization has also been shown to be a significant factor in increasing the radon levels found in many homes. Radon gas will be have more of a tendency to be drawn into the house, due to the differences between inside and outside air pressure.

Many homeowners living in older houses want to protect their investment by upgrading it, when and where they can.  Some of the most frequently upgraded areas are: permanent siding along with new soffits & fascia; new shingles; new energy-efficient windows and doors; upgrade attic insulation; etc. This is all very commendable, but watch out!  Many problems I see on a daily basis when inspecting homes, are directly due to one area of a home being upgraded, but a homeowner or contractor neglecting to see how the upgrade would impact another area.

Something you need to be aware of before making upgrades to your house is that your house is made up of many different systems (heating, cooling, electrical, ventilation, etc) all working together to perform their intended functions.   A critical mistake many specialty contractors and homeowners make is not to view a house as a whole.  Very seldom can you upgrade or make changes in one area of your home, without it impacting another area.

For instance, a homeowner recently spent a bundle making upgrades to his house.  He completely re-sided with new steel siding, new aluminum soffit and fascia, new shingles, upgraded attic insulation, and all new “top of the line” energy efficient windows and doors. . .spending in excess of $25,000 in the process.   Starting with the very first winter after the upgrades were made he began experiencing water staining on his ceilings, rusting on his ceiling light fixtures, and water running out of his wall receptacles.  He put up with it for one year, but mid-way through the second winter, he called me for help in diagnosing his problem.

Listed below are some of the problems found:

• The upgrades made to the house had the effect of tightening up the exterior “shell” to the point that what was once a “loose house” that breathed  –   was now a “tight house” that didn’t, virtually overnight.
• No extra attic or roof ventilation was installed to compensate for the possible increase in moisture being forced up into the attic (moisture that used to leak through windows, walls, etc.).
• When the new metal soffits were installed, the contractor did not align the new soffit vents with the old, thereby greatly restricting air-flow.
• No fresh air intake was installed in the furnace room, to assist in balancing indoor and outdoor air pressure.
  Mold growth was present on the roof decking & rafters, with water damage to the insulation & drywall ceilings.

What everyone forgot about when they upgraded the exterior “shell” was, they also should have considered:  1). upgrading the attic & roof venting, and   2). upgrading fresh air (combustion air) capacity.

Achieving a “balance” between the indoors and the outdoors, which will in turn create a “neutral air pressure” in the home, is a key element in reducing moisture problems inside walls and ceiling cavities, and resultant mold growth. Two basic concepts are key, in understanding the potential problems associated with improper air-flow and pressurization inside a home:  1). Warm air becoming cold is almost always bad (as it will allow for condensation to occur), and   2). Cold air becoming warm almost never creates a moisture problem.

Micro-climates, and the higher humidity levels they typically have, can be major mold producers in a home. Humidity levels in a house are a key element in reducing and/or controlling the growth and spread of mold and mildew. The typical comfort range for indoor humidity in northern climates is approximately 30% – 40%, in the winter months. While indoor “core” humidity levels can be kept relatively stable, and easily sustained at or about 40% RH (relative humidity), “micro-climates” can easily double this.

If your house has a basement, then basement water leakage and excess basement humidity levels are likely the number one contributors to mold growth in your home.  It has been documented that at least “98% of all sub-surface basement areas will leak, at some point in their life.”  In the over 5,000 home and commercial buildings I have inspected over the years, I certainly have found this statement to be true.

There can be many reasons for a damp or leaky basement, and they all add up to problems for you as a homeowner, if not corrected.  Actual water leakage should not be confused with the high relative humidity typically found in basements.   Both can pose serious problems, but need very different approaches to affect a cure.

Moisture trapped between the foundation wall and the finished basement wall can allow mold to grow unnoticed. Long-standing moisture problems can lead to decay, resulting in structural damage to the house.

The perimeter drain tile system underneath a basement floor and the sump basket it drains into, both serve a very useful purpose. This system provides a key element in helping to protect your house from water damage, by providing an artificial “low level” drainage and collection point under your basement floor.  If the system is working properly, water should drain from the tile into your sump basket.  You can then pump the excess water collected in the sump basket, outside.

Since by its very design it is intended to carry and hold water, this system also provides an ideal breeding ground for bacteria, molds, and mildew.

The condensate drip-pan, located on top of the furnace, can hold moisture for extended periods. Also, the older drum-type furnace humidifiers can provide the necessary ingredients for mold growth. In both of these systems their location is in very close proximity to an air-handling unit, which can allow mold spores to be quickly distributed throughout a house.

Many times, mold growth can a direct result of poor maintenance. For instance, if the homeowner had maintained his ceramic tile (photo below left), he likely would not have incurred the expense of having to replace his shower.  Also, I wonder how long the mold on the drywall had been growing, and what health effects he may have been experiencing as a direct result of it?

The photo below right shows an infrequently used shower, with the shower head encrusted with mold. Very little effort could be expended in order to keep this fixture clean.

Some molds produce mycotoxins, and other active compounds that can be injurious to human (and animal) health.  In parts of Eastern Europe in the mid-1930’s there were reported outbreaks of a new disease that affected horses and other livestock.  Subsequently, it was documented that mold in the hay fed to these animals was the likely culprit.  There have also been reported cases through the 1940’s, where humans who handled hay infested with mold, or slept in mattresses filled with moldy hay, suffered some of the same symptoms as the livestock.

One type of mold, stachybotrys, presents a special health risk. If areas contaminated with stachybotrys are discovered in your home, or if you find areas in your home that are contaminated with mold and are unsure what type it is, don’t attempt to remove it without first following the recommended safety procedures for persons working with toxic molds (i.e. use a respirator, gloves, proper covering for the skin & eyes, etc.).  I would also recommend that you get advice from a certified hygienist, or from your local Health Department.  You can contact the American Industrial Hygiene Association for referrals, at (703)849-8888.

John Bower, an expert in the field of designing healthy homes, has written a book entitled, “The Healthy House”.   It is recommended reading for anyone concerned about indoor air quality and healthy home design.  In his book, Mr. Bower outlines four basic principles for healthy home design, which can be modified somewhat, and adapted as strategies to reduce and/or) eliminate mold growth in your home.

The following four steps provide a basic outline to follow, as a starting point.  It is important to note that no two homes are exactly alike, therefore no two mold problems are exactly alike, therefore no two strategies for reducing mold in a home are exactly alike.

Mold Control Checklist

• Air conditioner is used when relative humidity is above 60 percent.
• Sheets of polyethylene have been installed over 80 percent of the crawl space.
• Foundation vents are kept open to provide cross ventilation.
• Attic is vented. (Attic fans help.)
• Ventilating fans, vented to the outside, are used in the kitchen and bathroom.
• Gas heaters are vented to the outside using an approved flue.
• Clothes dryers are vented to the outside of the house. Damp clothes and lines are hung to dry, not left around damp or wet.
• House and clothes are kept clean. (Remember: mildew begins on dirt.)
• Wet shower curtains are stretched out after every shower.
• Moisture-absorbing materials are used during times of high humidity. Some examples are silica gel, activated charcoal, calcium chloride, moth ball crystals and kitty litter.
• A low-wattage light bulb is kept on in closets to dry out the area.
• Heating system is turned on when the humidity is very high.
• Leather goods are waxed.
• Shrubs that grow close to the foundation are trimmed so that there is 1 foot of air space around the house.
• Mildew is cleaned from any exterior area of the house before repainting.

How to Remove Mold

In cases of a small infestation, a simple mixture of 1 gallon water and 1 cup liquid chlorine bleach is an effective mildew remover. In other cases, you may want to use detergent, TSP, boric acid, ammonia, white vinegar, washing soda or some combination of these ingredients. If the mold is covering a larger area, then you should consult with mold mitigation experts on appropriate removal strategies.

CAUTION: Never mix liquid chlorine bleach and ammonia. This can produce toxic fumes.

There are a number of excellent commercial mold removal products on the market. Many of these products come with a spray nozzle which makes them easy to apply. They cost more than homemade mold removers, but sometimes work faster. If you use a commercial mold remover, follow the directions on the container.

Whether you use a commercial or a homemade mold remover, make sure you have plenty of ventilation. Raise a window or use an exhaust fan.

Correcting Mold Misinformation  (great article on what mold is and isn’t)